Day 4 - Karnak to Luxor Temple via the Avenue of Sphinxes

Today I went for a second visit to Karnak temples, there is so much to explore. The plan was Mut temple, Khonsu temple and then to walk from Karnak along the avenue of sphinxes to Luxor. 

I popped by to say another hello to Sekhmet, Ptah and Nefertum before being shown the planned locations and I am very glad I did so. I’m just a short few days I feel the change within me. When I first stood with Sekhmet on Tuesday I looked into her eyes and cried. She had called me to come back, she has been teaching me and training me throughout this year and as hard as some of the initiations were, I knew I had to come here. I knew I had to rise to meet her, because what she is showing me is the lioness goddess within me that is ready to rise. Today I knew I’d pushed past the comfort barrier and am well on my way to whatever it is she has planned for me. I know in my heart what it is, yet it remains a mystery to my mind at this moment. 

I saw Khonsu in his baboon form as well as reliefs of him in his mummy cloth/boy form. I felt so blessed for my guide and the way he has re-organised the itinerary, trusting his instinct and his love for his country and his work. Without any knowledge of the moon he took me to Khonsu the moon god on today's Taurus super full moon. Khonsu is also seen as another aspect of Thoth, and as a Neter is known for the lunar mysteries, aswell as bringing you into communion with what no longer serves you - he will feast with your fears and shadows so they go away happy. Allowing the space wtihin for fertilisation of newly awakened DNA, working with the phases of the moon to bring healing, cleansing and renewing our belief systems.

Next was a little secret stop to the temple of Opet. Opet is the festival that would begin with a precession by Amun, Khonsu and Mut - the Theban triad and most worshiped gods and goddess at Karnak. Known as a fertility festival or as my guide called it - to refresh at Luxor temple because it is said that Luxor temple is where Amun first appeared from. 

Inside I was pleasantly surprised to see Hathor, and straight away it felt like a mammisi - this was before I knew that Opet was connected to fertility and “refreshing” or rejuvenating. 

Because of the temples being built by Romans, Greeks and Egyptians you really begin to notice the difference in the style and way they make offerings, and depict their stories about the gods upon the walls. 

Osiris was also seen here, the image of his remembering with Nephthys and Isis, instead of Isis in her kite/hawk form hovering over him you could see what I can only interpret as Mut and Amun - perhaps some reference to eternal life, I look forward to learning more about this.

This temple felt alive, revitalising, and very present with Divine feminine energy. Not only was Hathor there atop the columns, as well there were reliefs of the goddess - most likely Isis-Mut with the vulture upon her crown- feeding the small pharoah at her breast, and I was amazed to see Ma’at with Sekhmet behind her. 

The holy of Holies was behind a barrier but I could just make out a hippo like body with the head of a female woman - the features were soft. 

When I was finally ready to leave I noticed Hathor at ground level, a part of the temple that had been found and left inside but on the floor. I felt humbled and honoured to be able to look her deeply in the eye. 

At the temple of  Mut I felt I just had to be present, another one of those “ethereal dip the toe” moments for me. I don’t mind this because it means I have to come back! 

Here you can see many more of the  over 700 Sekhmet statues that were discovered within Karnak. Two for each day of the year. Her mighty motherly protection being harnessed. 

There was a small opening to what must be the holy space but other people were inside, and something had already told me “not this time”.

So now that we had learned, got to know and felt Amun, Mut and Khonsu, we made our way to the avenue of sphinxes to walk to Luxor temple. It took about an hour and was a beautiful way to reflect on all of my journey so far as well as taking in the sounds of the city around me. It was tiring for sure, but every time I felt fatigue creep in I saw Sekhmet and knew this was a building of stamina and capacity. 

When we arrived at Luxor temple I was shocked at how busy it was. From my private visit last year it was a contrast indeed. My guide shared his theory about this temple being connected to the eye of Ra and told me his stories of Amun appearing from here and how the temple entrance layout had been shifted by one of the pharaohs (I cannot remember who right now) to align with Karnak. 

But, there is another belief about Luxor which I deeply feel aligned with. Luxor is also known as the temple of man. The design or layout relates to the human body. If you’d like to know more about this mention it in the comments and I will give you some good books and articles to look up. 

Last year we had been guided to tune into this belief and with shoes off, take a walking meditation through the temple. My body responded in remarkable ways. Perhaps my shock of the busyness this time around was connected to the lack of awareness to this idea by the visitors because I felt very much like I was overwhelmed by the amount of people. 

Luckily a quiet spell came! I’ve learned a lot more about this temple since my last visit so I walked and tuned in and finally felt the refreshing feeling this temple must have given the gods when they made their Opet procession here. Particularly interesting was the area I’d learned was connected to the pituitary gland. Once I stepped into the area, everyone left and it  was as if I was having an energy healing from the space.

Part of the day that is very important to my guide is to make sure I have some lunch! I think I was actually sent my Neteru guide in living form. Today he bought me an orange and sugar cane juice which was AMAZING followed by brown beans in aish - Egyptian bread - which he called Egyptian sandwich for me. With some salad too and it was delicious. 

I am absolutely loving spending the time writing about each day and I hope you are too. Feel free to ask me any questions or leave comments. It’s been an absolute pleasure to share with you all in this way. I’m sad that I only have two days left. 

With love,

Gemma x